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Long Shawl, 1785-1800. Creator: Unknown
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Long Shawl, 1785-1800. Creator: Unknown
Long Shawl, 1785-1800. Artistic styles evolved with increasingly elaborate mosaic-like decoration during the 1800s to meet an insatiable European demand. These three shawls illustrate the changing fashions. Early shawls had plain fields with isolated plants in the end panels, which led to decorated side borders and vases of blossoming stems, as seen in the apricot shawl. In the vibrant yellow shawl, such flora was replaced by colourful, dense blossoms forming cone-shaped botehs, or paisleys, on trays. To this was added a gallery of small botehs and angular floral vines around a rich blue field with single botehs in the corners. A more elaborate gallery and larger botehs in the end panels decorate the later shawl on the right. Lightweight, supple, warm, and colourful, Kashmir shawls had no equal. Fine, soft goat-hair wool was woven in a 2/2 twill tapestry weave--the equivalent of painting with coloured weft threads. Imitations woven in Paisley, Scotland, prompted the popular term paisley
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This print showcases the evolution of artistic styles in shawl designs during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The three exquisite shawls on display exemplify the changing fashion trends that emerged to cater to the insatiable European demand for these luxurious accessories. The first shawl, dating back to 1785-1800, features a simple yet elegant design with plain fields and isolated plants adorning its end panels. As time progressed, decorative side borders and vases filled with blossoming stems became popular additions, as depicted in the apricot-colored shawl. Moving forward, we encounter a vibrant yellow masterpiece where flora is replaced by dense blossoms forming cone-shaped botehs or paisleys on trays. This intricate pattern is further enhanced by a gallery of small botehs and angular floral vines surrounding a rich blue field adorned with single botehs in each corner. Finally, we are introduced to an even more elaborate shawl on the rightmost side of the photograph. This later creation boasts a grander gallery and larger botehs in its end panels. Lightweight, supple, warm, and bursting with color, Kashmir shawls were truly unparalleled in their beauty. Crafted from fine goat-hair wool woven using a meticulous twill tapestry technique akin to painting with colored threads, these masterpieces captivated admirers worldwide. It is worth noting that imitations produced in Paisley, Scotland prompted the popular term "paisley" itself – an enduring testament to their enduring influence on fashion history.
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